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The rule of thermal physics

Perfume molecules evaporate faster in heat. A heavy oriental that smells perfect at 8°C becomes a sticky cloud at 35°C. A bright citrus that sparkles at 30°C disappears in five minutes when the air is 5°C. Choosing by temperature, not by the date on the calendar, is the single most useful rule a perfume wearer can adopt.

Spring (15–22°C)

Soft florals, fresh greens, light fruity accords. The skin is still cool but the air carries sound and scent well. Try: Diptyque Do Son, Chloé Eau de Parfum, Hermès Twilly.

Summer (24–40°C)

Citrus, aquatic, light cologne, transparent floral. Anything dense will smell heavy by noon. Try: Acqua di Parma Colonia, Dior Sauvage EDT, Chanel Chance Eau Fraîche, Maison Margiela Beach Walk.

Autumn (12–20°C)

Spicy oriental, mid-weight woody, light leather, fig. The temperature is forgiving and you can wear what your summer climate refused. Try: Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille (light spray), YSL Black Opium, Jo Malone Wood Sage & Sea Salt.

Winter (–5 to 12°C)

Heavy oud, resinous amber, oriental, gourmand, dense leather. The cold air holds scent close to the skin so projection is muted. Spray more, layer with a matching body cream if available. Try: Amouage Interlude Man, Roja Amber Oud, Initio Oud for Greatness, Parfums de Marly Herod.

The travel hack

Keep a 10 ml decant from each end of the spectrum in your travel kit — one fresh citrus, one warm oud. You will rarely fly into the wrong perfume that way.